Beijing 北京- the Northern Capital & the Great Wall 长城

I went to Beijing with a couple of friends on a Korean tour during the Lunar New Year holiday of 2004 and I can honestly say the only time I’ve been colder than walking across a windswept Tiananmen Square was the next day atop of the Great Wall. She was cold. I’d estimate a good 20 below Celsius with the icy Siberian winds adding another 10 to the chill factor. But, it was well and truly worth the numbing discomfort as this is one truly great city and a must for any avid traveller.

The name Beijing - the most recent of its several names – means ‘northern capital’ which about in 1421 when the Yongle Emperor switched the Ming Dynasty capital north from Nanjing, which aptly means ‘southern capital’. The city has since remained the seat of power of the nation we now know as China ever since, barring the period of 1928 to 1949 when the Republic of China had Nanjing as its capital, and not including from the war years of 1937 to 1945 when the capital was Chongqing.

Three thousand years old, witness to scores of dynasties and invaders, Beijing exudes history at every corner. Yet, it also exudes something else, power. And, with that authority. Being the capital of the largest nation on Earth and all under the control of the one central authoritarian party (the CCP)  necessitates stringent vigilance and order. And, the seemingly constant presence of Police and Army personnel at every corner ensures you remember that this is the capital, not Shanghai or one of the many other upstarts along the coast, and that you will behave when in the capital or face the consequences.

Located on the northern tip of the North China Plain, Beijing has always been prone to invaders, being relatively defenceless against northern hordes, notably Mongols and Manchus, raiding and ransacking the city. A definitive security barrier was required,and the answer was the Great Wall of China.

Stretching over 8,000 kilometres and being in existence – in one form or another – since the 5th century BC – the Great Wall is quite simply a marvel of human endeavour, ingenuity and effort.  Yet, it also has had its tragic history with thousands upon thousands over the years killed building, maintaining and guarding the wall along its entirety particularly during times of war or famine, or during the bitterly cold winter months.

Beijing is a city with an almost unsurpassed history yet with a promising and prominent future. Like the days of the Silk Road when thousands flocked east, these days, millions from all manner of nations and walks of life – are flocking to the northern capital to share knowledge, interact, learn, and experience all this grand city has to offer.

The Summer Palace ... in winter

Flags on Tiananmen Square

On the march .. across Tiananmen Square

The Great Wall of China

China's Great Wall

Forbidden City scene

Full gallery

Shanghai, China 中国上海

Following on from this morning’s photographic gallery of Shanghai’s The Bund district, here are photos of other locations and architecture across the metropolis of Shanghai.

Located by the Huangpu River on the Yangtze River Delta, Shanghai once a quiet fishing village transformed into a bustling, crowded city of commerce due to its convenient port location and opening up to foreign trade following the Treaty of Nanking. The foreigners left in the 1950s and with them, their money, yet the city continued to grow. Then, several decades later came Deng Xiaoping’s economic reforms and with them, Shanghai’s chance to re-enter the international stage and thrust itself once more as one of the most vibrant, prosperous and bustling urban centres on Earth.

The transformation of Shanghai over the past two decades has been truly remarkable. Global corporations have re-entered The Bund and with them thousands of Chinese entrepreneurs and millions of Chinese migrants seeking a better life and a piece of the substantial economic pie available. Hundreds upon thousands of Shanghainese along with migrants from inland China and their families have been lifted out of poverty through the economic miracle that has occurred throughout China’s most populous city and foremost economic centre.

Yet, it has come at cost. Development – at all costs – has been king in Shanghai as the local government and city planners have grand plans and visions for their city and its urban layout over the next 20 years. Thousands upon thousands of buildings, factories and homes have been uprooted for new structures. Hundreds of thousands have found themselves either homeless, displaced or jaded by inadequate compensation for loss of  business or home. But, Shanghai – at this point in time – is one place on Earth where truly opportunity does exist for all if they are plucky, lucky, cunning, confident, or wise enough to grab a hold of it.

This photo collection comes from my visit to Shanghai in April, 2004. I vividly remember being amazed at the sheer scale of the place, the buzz of the streets, the atmosphere of optimism as opportunity awaited at every corner, and the sheer ambition of the weird and wonderful architecture of the city – it was as if the city was making a statement to the world – yes, we’re brash, yes, we’re over-confident, yes, we’re here and yes, we’re going to make an impact. The world’s best architects were given a licence to treat the city as their personal playbox and the results have been outstanding. One thing I also remember, perhaps not as fondly, was the overpowering smell, taste and sight of concrete dust – you couldn’t help but breathe in the very foundation of the city’s progress.

Shanghai’s a great city with a fascinating, rich yet relatively young history and no doubt a grand, prosperous and exciting future ahead of her as the city’s best days may well be yet to come. Almost eight years since I was there, I can’t begin to imagine how much its changed and I’m dying to get back there in the near future.

And, without any further adieu, ladies and gentlemen, Shanghai.

Welcome & The Bund, Shanghai, China – April, 2004

Hello and welcome to Photography Journal where I’ll been compiling photographs of sites and sights I’ve encountered – and continue to encounter – across the Asia-Pacific region.

The first gallery I’m presenting is a series of photographs I took of The Bund, Shanghai, China, which has a fabulous collection of beautifully maintained and restored colonial architecture. As you may know The Bund, along the Huangpu River, was the centre of the Shanghai International Settlement when in the 19th  and early 20th century European powers starting with the British flocked to the concession area and set up banks, trading houses and consulates. Following the Chinese civil war the buildings were converted to different purposes – the Gang of Four were influential players operating out of this area during the Cultural Revolution - with all monuments and statues of Western figures removed.

A truly grand collection of buildings, home to a fascinating history and changes of fortune from the glamour and decadence of the Western concessions in the 1920s to the civil war and cultural revolution, and back to the present day – if only walls could talk!

Click for Entire gallery collection

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